Loose Fill Insulation Westwood

Loose-fill insulation in Westwood, measured rather than estimated

Loose-fill insulation is blown in rather than cut and fitted, which makes it the right answer wherever a batt cannot go: over an irregular Westwood attic floor, around trusses and bracing, and into wall cavities that are already closed. What you are paying for is settled depth spread evenly, and that is a thing which can be measured. Depth markers go in before the hose starts, and we read them at the corners rather than in the middle where it is always deepest.

• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated

Loose Fill Insulation Westwood

Weight on the ceiling below

Westwood drywall in context

Topping up what is already there

Moisture is what ruins it

What it does for sound

Storage areas and the platform question

Loose-fill or batts, decided on the space

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Westwood: your questions answered

What if you find old wiring?

If we find wiring that must not be covered, we stop and say so rather than blowing over it. That is an electrician's call, not ours, and it is a real reason a job gets paused rather than finished the same day.

How is old insulation removed?

With a vacuum and hose into sealed bags, not shovels, because disturbing decades of settled material raises a lot of dust. It also gives a clean deck to air-seal and a look at the structure before it is covered again.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Will it block my soffit vents?

Not if baffles go in first. Loose material can also be pushed around by wind at the eaves, so the baffles both hold it clear of the vents and stop the edge being scoured thin — which is exactly where the house loses heat.

Does the attic hatch need doing too?

Yes, or it undoes a good part of the rest. It needs an insulated weatherstripped cover and a dam around the opening tall enough to hold the new depth back from spilling through every time it is opened.