Loose Fill Insulation University of Alberta Farm Edmonton

Blown-in insulation for University of Alberta Farm attics and closed cavities

Loose-fill insulation is blown in rather than cut and fitted, which makes it the right answer wherever a batt cannot go: over an irregular University of Alberta Farm attic floor, around trusses and bracing, and into wall cavities that are already closed. What you are paying for is settled depth spread evenly, and that is a thing which can be measured. Depth markers go in before the hose starts, and we read them at the corners rather than in the middle where it is always deepest.

• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried

Loose Fill Insulation University of Alberta Farm Edmonton

Working in a cathedral or a low attic

University of Alberta Farm drywall in context

Bag count is the honest check

Knob-and-tube and older wiring

Bath fans and the ducts above the ceiling

Removing old loose-fill

Filling around bracing and trusses

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation University of Alberta Farm Edmonton: your questions answered

How do I know I got what I paid for?

Bag count. Every bag states the area it covers at a given depth, so bags used divided by area is exactly what went in. We keep them, mark the target settled depth, and read the depth back at the corners rather than the middle.

Will it make the house quieter?

It noticeably reduces airborne noise from outside — traffic, aircraft, neighbours. It does very little for footsteps from a floor above, which travel through structure, and we would rather say which half it fixes.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Is it too heavy for my ceiling?

Rarely, but worth thinking about on an older lath ceiling or a long unsupported span. Where the ceiling is old or already sagging we would rather use the lighter material at a sensible depth, and sometimes recommend fixing the ceiling first.

Will it block my soffit vents?

Not if baffles go in first. Loose material can also be pushed around by wind at the eaves, so the baffles both hold it clear of the vents and stop the edge being scoured thin — which is exactly where the house loses heat.

What do I get when the job is done?

The bag count, the target settled depth, and photographs of the finished space including the corners and the eaves — so you can confirm years later what was actually installed instead of probing a hole and guessing.