Is it too heavy for my ceiling?

Rarely, but worth thinking about on an older lath ceiling or a long unsupported span. Where the ceiling is old or already sagging we would rather use the lighter material at a sensible depth, and sometimes recommend fixing the ceiling first.

Can you blow insulation into my walls without opening them?

Often yes — dense-pack through small holes, packed hard enough that it does not slump and leave a cold band at the top. The holes then need filling and finishing, which is drywall work, so we quote that with it rather than surprising you.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Does the attic hatch need doing too?

Yes, or it undoes a good part of the rest. It needs an insulated weatherstripped cover and a dam around the opening tall enough to hold the new depth back from spilling through every time it is opened.

Can I still store things in the attic?

Only over a raised platform. Anything laid straight on the joists compresses the material and cuts a thin channel through the middle of the ceiling. Otherwise a fully insulated attic is not also a storage room.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

Loose Fill Insulation Stewart Greens Edmonton | Blown-In

Blown-in insulation for Stewart Greens attics and closed cavities

Blown-in material fills the awkward parts of an Stewart Greens building that batts leave gapped — around cross-bracing, over the top plates of interior walls, into the shallow triangle at the eaves. It settles over time, which is why it is specified at a settled depth rather than the depth it looks on the day. Air sealing comes first, because loose material laid over an open ceiling penetration hides the leak instead of stopping it.

Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried

Removing old loose-fill

A vacuum job, not a shovel job

Old blown-in comes out with a vacuum and hose into sealed bags, because disturbing decades of settled material makes a great deal of airborne dust.

What it buys

A clean deck to air-seal properly and, in older Stewart Greens homes, the chance to see the ceiling structure and any past leaks before they are covered again.

Bath fans and the ducts above the ceiling

A very common find

Fans discharging into the attic instead of outside, or a duct that has come off its boot and is blowing into the insulation.

Why it belongs in this job

It is the fastest way to soak an Stewart Greens attic from inside. We look for it while the space is open and flag it before covering anything, rather than blowing over the top.

Storage areas and the platform question

The trade-off is real

Anything laid on the joists compresses loose-fill and cuts a thin channel through the middle of an Stewart Greens ceiling.

Doing it properly

If storage is genuinely needed, a raised platform over a limited area lets full depth continue underneath. Otherwise the honest answer is that a fully insulated attic is not also a storage room.

Access, hoses and how much of the house we cross

Practical reality

The machine sits outside and a hose runs to the Stewart Greens attic hatch, which usually means through a hallway or a closet.

Keeping it clean

Protected route, sealed hatch surround, the space vacuumed after. It is a dusty trade and the difference between a good crew and a bad one is mostly what the house looks like at the end.

How it works

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Free quote

We come out to your Edmonton property, take a real look at the drywall, and hand you a fixed price on the spot — no guessing, no vague ballpark. Every drywall quote in Edmonton starts with an honest, on-site assessment.

Book a day

We pick a day that works for your schedule and show up on time, ready to start the drywall in Edmonton. No back-and-forth rescheduling — once it's booked, our team is there.

The work

We keep the dust under control and protect your Edmonton home while we finish the drywall to a clean, paint-ready standard. Floors covered, doors sealed off, and the site left tidy at the end of every day.

Walk it with you

We don't pack up till you've walked the finished drywall with us and you're happy with the result in Edmonton. If anything needs a second look, we handle it before we call the job done.

Reviews

Rated by Edmonton Homeowners

★ ★ ★ ★ ★

Emplastrum Drywall is the drywall contractor Edmonton trusts for repair, restoration and finishing — rated on Google by Edmonton homeowners.

Read the reviews, or leave your own after your drywall project in Edmonton.

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FAQ — Loose Fill Insulation Stewart Greens Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Stewart Greens Edmonton: your questions answered

Is it too heavy for my ceiling?: Rarely, but worth thinking about on an older lath ceiling or a long unsupported span. Where the ceiling is old or already sagging we would rather use the lighter material at a sensible depth, and sometimes recommend fixing the ceiling first.
Can you blow insulation into my walls without opening them?: Often yes — dense-pack through small holes, packed hard enough that it does not slump and leave a cold band at the top. The holes then need filling and finishing, which is drywall work, so we quote that with it rather than surprising you.
Cellulose or fibreglass?: Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.
Does the attic hatch need doing too?: Yes, or it undoes a good part of the rest. It needs an insulated weatherstripped cover and a dam around the opening tall enough to hold the new depth back from spilling through every time it is opened.
Can I still store things in the attic?: Only over a raised platform. Anything laid straight on the joists compresses the material and cuts a thin channel through the middle of the ceiling. Otherwise a fully insulated attic is not also a storage room.
Can you just add over what is already up there?: Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

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📐 Materials Calculator

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Enter your room size for a quick materials estimate.

Room length (ft)Room width (ft)Ceiling height (ft)Number of rooms Include ceilingSheet sizeCoats of paintCavity depthFraming spacingInsulation already there (in)Top up to (in)Stud spacingDoorsWindowsWaste allowance (%)

Estimate only — rounded up, based on standard coverage rates (drywall +10% waste; paint ~350 sq ft per gallon per coat; batt bundles by cavity depth, less a framing factor; studs at your chosen spacing plus waste). Product coverage varies by brand — confirm quantities before buying. Ask us about the right R-value for your project.

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Loose Fill Insulation Stewart Greens Edmonton

Blown-in insulation for Stewart Greens attics and closed cavities