Loose Fill Insulation Overlanders

Blown-in insulation for Overlanders attics and closed cavities

Blown-in material fills the awkward parts of an Overlanders building that batts leave gapped — around cross-bracing, over the top plates of interior walls, into the shallow triangle at the eaves. It settles over time, which is why it is specified at a settled depth rather than the depth it looks on the day. Air sealing comes first, because loose material laid over an open ceiling penetration hides the leak instead of stopping it.

• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates

Loose Fill Insulation Overlanders

Loose-fill or batts, decided on the space

Overlanders drywall in context

Working in a cathedral or a low attic

Settled depth versus installed depth

Bag count is the honest check

Blowing into a wall that is already closed

The hatch, again, because it undoes the rest

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Overlanders: your questions answered

What if you find old wiring?

If we find wiring that must not be covered, we stop and say so rather than blowing over it. That is an electrician's call, not ours, and it is a real reason a job gets paused rather than finished the same day.

Does the attic hatch need doing too?

Yes, or it undoes a good part of the rest. It needs an insulated weatherstripped cover and a dam around the opening tall enough to hold the new depth back from spilling through every time it is opened.

My bathroom fan vents into the attic. Does that matter?

A great deal — it is the fastest way to soak an attic from inside. We look for it while the space is open and flag it before covering anything rather than blowing over the top of it.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Will it make the house quieter?

It noticeably reduces airborne noise from outside — traffic, aircraft, neighbours. It does very little for footsteps from a floor above, which travel through structure, and we would rather say which half it fixes.