Loose Fill Insulation Oleskiw

Blown-in insulation for Oleskiw attics and closed cavities

Loose-fill insulation is blown in rather than cut and fitted, which makes it the right answer wherever a batt cannot go: over an irregular Oleskiw attic floor, around trusses and bracing, and into wall cavities that are already closed. What you are paying for is settled depth spread evenly, and that is a thing which can be measured. Depth markers go in before the hose starts, and we read them at the corners rather than in the middle where it is always deepest.

• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried

Loose Fill Insulation Oleskiw

Knob-and-tube and older wiring

Oleskiw drywall in context

Working in a cathedral or a low attic

Filling around bracing and trusses

Loose-fill or batts, decided on the space

Cellulose or fibreglass, and when it matters

Topping up what is already there

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Oleskiw: your questions answered

Is blown-in better than batts?

In an attic, usually yes, because it flows around trusses, bracing and wiring where batts get cut short or forced and leave gaps. In open framed walls at regular spacing, batts are fine. We recommend by the space, not by what is on the truck.

How is old insulation removed?

With a vacuum and hose into sealed bags, not shovels, because disturbing decades of settled material raises a lot of dust. It also gives a clean deck to air-seal and a look at the structure before it is covered again.

Can you blow insulation into my walls without opening them?

Often yes — dense-pack through small holes, packed hard enough that it does not slump and leave a cold band at the top. The holes then need filling and finishing, which is drywall work, so we quote that with it rather than surprising you.

Will it block my soffit vents?

Not if baffles go in first. Loose material can also be pushed around by wind at the eaves, so the baffles both hold it clear of the vents and stop the edge being scoured thin — which is exactly where the house loses heat.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Do you seal before blowing?

Yes, and it is the step most often skipped. Loose material laid over an open ceiling penetration hides the leak rather than stopping it, and the warm moist air coming through is what wets the insulation from inside.