Loose Fill Insulation Northmount Edmonton

Loose-fill insulation in Northmount — settled depth is what you are buying

Blown-in material fills the awkward parts of an Northmount building that batts leave gapped — around cross-bracing, over the top plates of interior walls, into the shallow triangle at the eaves. It settles over time, which is why it is specified at a settled depth rather than the depth it looks on the day. Air sealing comes first, because loose material laid over an open ceiling penetration hides the leak instead of stopping it.

• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is

Loose Fill Insulation Northmount Edmonton

Knob-and-tube and older wiring

Northmount drywall in context

Access, hoses and how much of the house we cross

What we hand over at the end

The hatch, again, because it undoes the rest

The material must not block the eaves

Storage areas and the platform question

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Northmount Edmonton: your questions answered

Is blown-in better than batts?

In an attic, usually yes, because it flows around trusses, bracing and wiring where batts get cut short or forced and leave gaps. In open framed walls at regular spacing, batts are fine. We recommend by the space, not by what is on the truck.

How do I know I got what I paid for?

Bag count. Every bag states the area it covers at a given depth, so bags used divided by area is exactly what went in. We keep them, mark the target settled depth, and read the depth back at the corners rather than the middle.

Will it block my soffit vents?

Not if baffles go in first. Loose material can also be pushed around by wind at the eaves, so the baffles both hold it clear of the vents and stop the edge being scoured thin — which is exactly where the house loses heat.

How is old insulation removed?

With a vacuum and hose into sealed bags, not shovels, because disturbing decades of settled material raises a lot of dust. It also gives a clean deck to air-seal and a look at the structure before it is covered again.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.