Loose Fill Insulation La Perle Edmonton

Blown-in insulation for La Perle attics and closed cavities

Blown-in material fills the awkward parts of an La Perle building that batts leave gapped — around cross-bracing, over the top plates of interior walls, into the shallow triangle at the eaves. It settles over time, which is why it is specified at a settled depth rather than the depth it looks on the day. Air sealing comes first, because loose material laid over an open ceiling penetration hides the leak instead of stopping it.

• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates

Loose Fill Insulation La Perle Edmonton

Removing old loose-fill

La Perle drywall in context

Blowing into a wall that is already closed

Working in a cathedral or a low attic

The hatch, again, because it undoes the rest

Topping up what is already there

Weight on the ceiling below

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation La Perle Edmonton: your questions answered

Can you blow insulation into my walls without opening them?

Often yes — dense-pack through small holes, packed hard enough that it does not slump and leave a cold band at the top. The holes then need filling and finishing, which is drywall work, so we quote that with it rather than surprising you.

How do I know I got what I paid for?

Bag count. Every bag states the area it covers at a given depth, so bags used divided by area is exactly what went in. We keep them, mark the target settled depth, and read the depth back at the corners rather than the middle.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Is it too heavy for my ceiling?

Rarely, but worth thinking about on an older lath ceiling or a long unsupported span. Where the ceiling is old or already sagging we would rather use the lighter material at a sensible depth, and sometimes recommend fixing the ceiling first.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

How is old insulation removed?

With a vacuum and hose into sealed bags, not shovels, because disturbing decades of settled material raises a lot of dust. It also gives a clean deck to air-seal and a look at the structure before it is covered again.