Loose Fill Insulation Haddow Edmonton

Blown-in insulation for Haddow attics and closed cavities

Loose-fill insulation is blown in rather than cut and fitted, which makes it the right answer wherever a batt cannot go: over an irregular Haddow attic floor, around trusses and bracing, and into wall cavities that are already closed. What you are paying for is settled depth spread evenly, and that is a thing which can be measured. Depth markers go in before the hose starts, and we read them at the corners rather than in the middle where it is always deepest.

• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear

Loose Fill Insulation Haddow Edmonton

Cellulose or fibreglass, and when it matters

Haddow drywall in context

Loose-fill or batts, decided on the space

Pot lights buried in loose material

Access, hoses and how much of the house we cross

Knob-and-tube and older wiring

Topping up what is already there

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Haddow Edmonton: your questions answered

Will it block my soffit vents?

Not if baffles go in first. Loose material can also be pushed around by wind at the eaves, so the baffles both hold it clear of the vents and stop the edge being scoured thin — which is exactly where the house loses heat.

What if you find old wiring?

If we find wiring that must not be covered, we stop and say so rather than blowing over it. That is an electrician's call, not ours, and it is a real reason a job gets paused rather than finished the same day.

Can you blow insulation into my walls without opening them?

Often yes — dense-pack through small holes, packed hard enough that it does not slump and leave a cold band at the top. The holes then need filling and finishing, which is drywall work, so we quote that with it rather than surprising you.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Will it make the house quieter?

It noticeably reduces airborne noise from outside — traffic, aircraft, neighbours. It does very little for footsteps from a floor above, which travel through structure, and we would rather say which half it fixes.