Loose Fill Insulation Crystallina Nera West

Loose-fill insulation in Crystallina Nera West, measured rather than estimated

Loose-fill insulation is blown in rather than cut and fitted, which makes it the right answer wherever a batt cannot go: over an irregular Crystallina Nera West attic floor, around trusses and bracing, and into wall cavities that are already closed. What you are paying for is settled depth spread evenly, and that is a thing which can be measured. Depth markers go in before the hose starts, and we read them at the corners rather than in the middle where it is always deepest.

• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates
• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts

Loose Fill Insulation Crystallina Nera West

Knob-and-tube and older wiring

Crystallina Nera West drywall in context

Loose-fill or batts, decided on the space

Settled depth versus installed depth

Bag count is the honest check

Cellulose or fibreglass, and when it matters

Moisture is what ruins it

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Crystallina Nera West: your questions answered

Does the attic hatch need doing too?

Yes, or it undoes a good part of the rest. It needs an insulated weatherstripped cover and a dam around the opening tall enough to hold the new depth back from spilling through every time it is opened.

What do I get when the job is done?

The bag count, the target settled depth, and photographs of the finished space including the corners and the eaves — so you can confirm years later what was actually installed instead of probing a hole and guessing.

My bathroom fan vents into the attic. Does that matter?

A great deal — it is the fastest way to soak an attic from inside. We look for it while the space is open and flag it before covering anything rather than blowing over the top of it.

Is it too heavy for my ceiling?

Rarely, but worth thinking about on an older lath ceiling or a long unsupported span. Where the ceiling is old or already sagging we would rather use the lighter material at a sensible depth, and sometimes recommend fixing the ceiling first.

Can you just add over what is already up there?

Usually, and it is the best value if the existing material is dry, even and uncontaminated. If it is damp, matted, rodent-affected or hiding unsealed penetrations, adding over it buries the problem — we tell you which one we found.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.