Loose Fill Insulation Crestwood

Loose-fill insulation in Crestwood, measured rather than estimated

Loose-fill insulation is blown in rather than cut and fitted, which makes it the right answer wherever a batt cannot go: over an irregular Crestwood attic floor, around trusses and bracing, and into wall cavities that are already closed. What you are paying for is settled depth spread evenly, and that is a thing which can be measured. Depth markers go in before the hose starts, and we read them at the corners rather than in the middle where it is always deepest.

• Baffles at the eaves so soffit venting stays clear
• Existing material assessed — topped up, or removed if it is wet or contaminated
• Settled depth specified and marked before the hose starts
• Ceiling penetrations air-sealed first, not buried
• Depth read back at the corners, not just where the hatch is
• Even coverage carried right out over the top plates

Loose Fill Insulation Crestwood

What we hand over at the end

Crestwood drywall in context

Removing old loose-fill

Settled depth versus installed depth

Pot lights buried in loose material

Bag count is the honest check

Moisture is what ruins it

Simple, clean, on schedule — Drywall in Edmonton

Loose Fill Insulation Crestwood: your questions answered

What about my pot lights?

Older recessed fixtures are not all rated to be covered and loose-fill packs right against them. We check the rating, and where they are not rated they get a proper clearance detail that is also sealed, rather than being buried and hoped about.

Does the attic hatch need doing too?

Yes, or it undoes a good part of the rest. It needs an insulated weatherstripped cover and a dam around the opening tall enough to hold the new depth back from spilling through every time it is opened.

What do I get when the job is done?

The bag count, the target settled depth, and photographs of the finished space including the corners and the eaves — so you can confirm years later what was actually installed instead of probing a hole and guessing.

Will it block my soffit vents?

Not if baffles go in first. Loose material can also be pushed around by wind at the eaves, so the baffles both hold it clear of the vents and stop the edge being scoured thin — which is exactly where the house loses heat.

Cellulose or fibreglass?

Both work. Cellulose is denser, packs into odd shapes and resists air movement through it better; fibreglass is lighter, which matters on a ceiling of uncertain strength. Where there is existing material, matching it is usually simpler than layering the other over it.

Is blown-in better than batts?

In an attic, usually yes, because it flows around trusses, bracing and wiring where batts get cut short or forced and leave gaps. In open framed walls at regular spacing, batts are fine. We recommend by the space, not by what is on the truck.